We Review Gillespie’s High Dock
Sometimes a great idea finds a perfect place to manifest itself. On Sunday May 4, my boyfriend, who will henceforth be referred to as Bear, and I were having brunch at Katie and John’s three day old Gillespie’s High Dock. In real estate it is location, location, location. Conveniently situated right on the water, Gillespie’s has a lovely view of Bandon's port, and also of old town Bandon itself. Bear espied Mongo and we called him to join us. It was a ton of fun. The mimosas were flowing. (For a new twist on your mimosa have one with mango juice. Or cranberry. At $4 a drink you can afford to experiment.) In the course of our conversation Mongo shared that Krab was taking a month’s sabbatical from her restaurant review gig and I implored him to let us review the High Dock the next week.



But before we get to the real review, another couple of words about brunch: Katie is the waitress with attitude, formerly at Stan’s Place. She can also make a mean biscuit. My friend Froggie, who is a picky eater, raves about the “big fat fluffy things” Katie creates. They are light and hearty. Readers that are also cooks know that biscuits are so easy to make that lots of chefs overdo and toughen them up. My Crazy Aunt Mary maintains you need a “light hand and a gay heart” to mix pastry dough. Katie knows when to stop. The biscuits were perfect, a cross between a pioneer American legend with a toast to the buttery English scone. Slathered in jelly, they didn’t need butter to melt in your mouth. Add delectable crab cakes and fresh fruit and you’ve got a little piece of heaven for breakfast.


Right on time on May 10, we three Mongoteers, new to the restaurant review circuit reconnoitered. I was immediately impressed with the class of the place. Phil Mack serenaded us with some of the best acoustic jazz I have heard on the coast. The tiki bar resonated the craftsmanship of contractor Stephen Bruce, who also painted the colorful original that hangs on the wall. Paul from Mutter’s Gutters designed the large and unique wine rack. All along the windows above the tables are whimsical and colorful mobiles. I exclaimed at their beauty and learned they are courtesy of the Inner Garden down the block in Old Town. Later as darkness approached, we discovered they are actually candle holders. What a clever way to combine beauty and utility.


Dining out is about food, beverage, atmosphere, service, belonging and fun, not always in that order. The restaurants that can have it all going on are special indeed. Currently there are a few Bandon eateries (some of which you have already read about in the Krab’s musings) that have a piece of that magic. Gillespies’ High Dock has the potential to join that Winner’s Circle. On that Mother’s Day Eve, Gillespies’s patrons were able to watch a mama seal teach her newborn how to swim while we sipped cocktails protected from the wind. Add fishing osprey and soaring eagles to the mix and you know, life just doesn’t get much better than that. Our service the whole evening was attentive without being intrusive. Absolutely A+ for Ambiance.


Down to the business of reviewing: Mongo: “Ducque did you remember to bring pen and paper to take notes?” Ducque: “Er, yes, but I left them in the car. Wanna see my new doggie?” Bear: “Quit talking about that pooch. This column is about the restaurant.” Mongo: “Stop fighting you two. I remembered! Use these. Write down what everything costs. Boy are we going to write the best review ever.” Yeah! I felt like I had attained my lifelong goal of becoming a spy as I secreted the yellow paper and pen under my napkin.


The appetizers cost between $8-$15; entrees $16-$22; and desserts were all $6 a pop. The wine list was all encompassing and reasonably priced. Mongo and I had BIG (at least 16 ounce) margaritas for $8 each. No frou foo froth for us. We had them on the rocks without salt. And all I can say is, wow. The usual green tinted drink had a yellowish cast and an orangey twist to the taste. I think Cointreau might be what gives their ‘ritas' a citrusy glow. Whatever their secret is, the beverage was a refreshing variation to Mongo’s tequila favorite. They were so good we ordered seconds, but they were so big and punch-packed neither of us could finish the subsequent. Bear contented himself with four glasses of the house sauvignon blanc ($5.50 for a generous goblet) which he describes as “excellent.” A meaningful restaurant experience requires libations and the new High Dock gets another “A” in that department.


Their bread was yummy, chewy and healthy with seeds or something. It would have gotten an extra point from me had it been warm, but you can’t have everything. I only got one piece because the boys gobbled up the rest of the basket. We ordered appetizers of antipasto plate ($15) for Bear and beef skewers ($8) for Mongo. The antipasto had three wonderful cheeses representing Norway, Spain and some other country. (I can’t read my secret notes.) But I can tell you one was triple cream, one was dry and pungent, and one was so flavorful I could have made a meal of it. Personally I don’t care for Italian lunch meats but Bear assured me that the salami, pancetta and prosciutto were of the highest quality for those of you that have more developed palates. The plate was garnished with ripe grape tomatoes, artichoke hearts and a generous handful of kalamatra olives that disappeared in the blink of an eye. Our beef was cooked to perfection, seasoned with just the right amount of bite (cumin, maybe red pepper?) and practically fell off the skewer. It was served on a gorgeous bed of fresh mango sprinkled in mint. Mmmm good.


The salads were something special. They are made with organic greens from Abby in Langlois. Mongo added chicken to his Greek salad and it was a big enough meal (at $15) to have leftovers boxed for later. (He told me to be sure and write that they even label your doggy bags for you. Talk about good service.) The house dressing is an unusual and delicious lemony thing. I love trying to re-create recipes in my home and I’m gonna have to go back and order my own salad just to dissect all the flavors in that complex vinaigrette concoction. Bites from Bear and Mongo’s plates weren’t enough for me. The use of tasty vinegar and real lemon is obvious.



People who have eaten my cooking will tell you I know how to make soup. So does the High Dock. I ordered cream of leek and it surpassed my expectation, even better than the last two batches from my own kitchen. The leeks were thoroughly cooked to a buttery softness and allowed to float in the broth seasoned with pepper.


For entrees Bear had prime rib ($19) and I had shrimp and scallops cooked in garlic on penne pasta ($22.) Again our food was prepared correctly, but after the excellence leading up to the main course, it was just a tad disappointing. The penne wasn’t too soft or too al dente. The beef and scallops were tender. The shrimp was fat and juicy. So, please don’t get me wrong, it was good, just not enough seasoning for our tastes. We love our garlic. I was told by a friend who had their three-cheese meatloaf made with lean beef, ground turkey and sweet Italian sausage ($16) that I ordered the wrong main course. Just another reason to go back.


The desserts were the piece de résistance of our dining experience. All are made on the premises. The three choices that night were brownie with strawberry sauce and homemade vanilla ice cream; lemon tart and tiramisu. Talk about luscious. We squabbled over which was better. The lemon disappeared first but the brownie was exceptional. Just the right amount of chocolate and crunch with fresh strawberry sweetness. Where else in town can you get home churned ice cream?


Mongo thought that maybe the tiramisu that I took home was less stellar than the other two. Not so, silly boy. I had a plan. After all the other wonderful taste sensations that evening I wanted to enjoy my cake in solitary glory. I swear I could sit in a corner, spooning up and savoring that soft, spongy stuff for hours on blissful end. It made me very happy the next day as I typed this review. I’d heard that during Gillespie’s first week in business, their pineapple upside down cake disappeared in one night. But alas that ultimate in comfort foods was not offered the night of our sojourn. One of my favorite Katie quotes is “Cake makes everything better.” Definitely something to live by.


Gillespie’s is still formulating its cuisine signature. Future plans include possible theme nights in the winter. New as I am to being a restaurant reviewer I know that one should really give a new place chance to catch its stride before it is reviewed. Lots can change in the first few months of a business. But since I didn’t wait, let us turn my faux pas into an opportunity. Owners Katie and John are still playing with the menu and hours so Bandonites, get there soon so you can give your input. The Three Mongo-ites did. Then when the place takes off you can reminisce about how you got them to add fondue to the menu, or convinced them to open for brunch every week.


315 First Street, right on the water in Old Town, telephone 347-5432, Currently serving dinners Wednesday-Sunday from 5:00PM until they’re done.


Dinner for three with two appetizers, 64+ ounces of margarita, four goblets of wine, one dinner salad, two entrees, and three desserts: $152, excluding gratuity. THANK YOU MONGO. The fun of being part of discovering the new place in town: PRICELESS. Three and 1/2 happy Mongothumbs!




Reviewed by Ducque May 2008
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